Update[01/20/10] | Hermes Date Codes: Each year a Hermes bag was made is represented by a letter.
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Shapes utilized for dating: Hermes uses geometric symbols to decipher alphabet cycles.
- A-N framed with a square: 1997 - 2010
- A-Z framed with a circle: 1971 - 1996
- A-Z no shape: 1945 - 1970
Below is an image of a Hermes date code: The letter "I" framed by a square = 2005
More on Hermes date codes: Always check the date stamp located under the strap, and make sure that the date on the strap is consistant with what the seller is presenting. Hermes uses letters in alphapbetical order to date the bags. The list shows the year made, and the letter that would be stamped on the bag based on that year. At the top of every list (below) is the shape that the letter would be framed inside:
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Hermes logo: Located on the front/outside of the bag. Everything should line up even and centered. Notice the space within the yellow lines (below). The same amount of space remains on each side of the yellow lines regardless of what part of the logo is being tested. The top HERMES stamp is centered within the bottom MADE IN FRANCE stamp. This is demonstrated by the outer yellow lines. And the middle PARIS stamp is centered within the top HERMES stamp, as demonstrated by the inner yellow lines. And because we know the top HERMES is centered within the bottom MADE IN FRANCE stamp, by extension the middle PARIS stamp is also centered within the MADE IN FRANCE stamp. Always make a note to check on the Hermes embossed stamp impression. Make sure that everything is properly centered. Any uneven, crooked or lopsided stamp impression is an automatic red flag.
Hermes Stitching: Hermes stitch lines should be flawless, as every Hermes bag is hand made and hand sewn. There should not be any out of place stitches, out of order, crooked seams or irregular stitch patterns on an authentic Hermes handbag. When inspecting a Hermes handbag, follow the stitch lines carefully with your finger (you may wish to use soft gloves) and look for any crooked or out of order stitches within the seam line. Any indication of sloppy stitching is an automatic red flag.
Below is an example of fake Hermes stitching: Notice the out of place single stitch lines in the bordering seams. Since we know authentic Hermes bags are all hand stitched, then it is easy to infer that a bag with stitches that are out of whack is probably fake. It is easy when using a sewing machine and rapidly putting down hundreds of stitches, to have some areas come out irregular. But the Hermes bags are not made with a sewing machine, so every stitch has a human factor, meaning every stitch is scrutinized, and carefully sewn in, one by one. Thus the hand sewn stitch lines should be nearly perfect. And if anything looks sloppy, then it is most likely a phony Hermes bag.
Note: The areas in the phony Hermes (above) where single stitches fall out of line. An authentic hand sewn Hermes would not have out of order stitches, creating a seam line that is irregular.
Hermes Hardware: Authentic Hermes hardware, or metal accents on their handbags should always be a genuine precious metal. Because of this, the metal on the handbags is heavier than a normal metal accent found on a less premium handbag brand. The use of precious metals also means that the metal on an authentic Hermes handbag will not tarnish. Always check the quality of the metal on the handbag, if it feels light and of low quality, then that should raise an automatic red flag.
Hermes metals:
- 24K plated gold
- Silver palladium
- Ruthenium [Burnished]
- Guilloche [Diamond cut pattern HW palladium]
Below is an image of fake Hermes hardware: Note the gold color is wearing off in the areas that are slightly worn [the tarnish starts at the bottom left corner or the metal and runs along the edge to about the H in Hermes. The silver that is starting to show through the gold is evidence that the Hermes hardware is counterfeit]. An authentic Hermes metal accent should never tarnish.
Hermes zippers: An authentic Hermes zipper pull should not flop down, or hang down at a 90 degree angle from the zipper line. An authentic zipper pull should remain parrallel to the zipper line. A hanging zipper pull is always a red flag. The zipper mechanism itself is a high quality design, one that is set up to lock (or hold) the zipper pull in a parrallel postition. This keeps the zipper pull from dangling around, and remaining stiff and in place.
Below is an image of an authentic parrallel zipper pull: Notice the zipper pull does not hang down, droop or flop. Also notice the mechanism itself. The high quality of this zipper is obvious within the intricate design. This is not a zipper that would be found on a lesser brand, or most counterfeits. Again like the stitch lines, it is in the tiny details that Hermes sets itself apart from everyone else. Also note the Hermes logo is etched on the zipper itself.
Below is an image of a Hermes H logo on a Kelly Zipper end: Note the color is consistant even under the spots that are slightly worn.
Below is a real vs fake Hermes zipper:
In the above example we can clearly spot the difference between the real and the fake zippers. In this case the fake has the leather zipper pull attached at the wrong area because the entire structure of the zipper is incorrect. Also note the stitch lines in the authentic compared to the fake. The authentic has smaller stitch lengths and therefore more stitches per inch.
Update[01/18/10] |Hermes Birkin, Kelly, leather info:
- Birkins sizes: 25, 30, 35, 40 and 45cm. The size 45 Birkin is generally used for trips and has longer straps. The Haut au Courries [High belt] is Hermes bag that is similar. This handbag is slightly taller, but showcases straps that are shorter. The "High belts", or the Haut au Courries handbags are manufactured in sizes 27, 32, [37]. The High Belt is also part of the Hermes Birkin family tree.
- Kelly sizes: 20, 25, 28, 32, and 35 cm.
- Kelly bag two techniques:
- Rigide: Exterior (outer) stitching. The rigide Hermes Kelly is generally more costly.
- Souple: Interior stitching. This Kelly handbag has a more distressed, or a softer leather. All leather options are available, along with HW, and shoulder strap.
- Leather: Hermes utilizes both texured and smooth leather styles. A common Birkin leather is Togo [textured calf leather (also scratch resistant)]. For smoother leathers, Hermes uses goat leather and more exotic like croc etc.
- Some Common Hermes leathers:
- Togo {calf]
- Ogo
- Clemence
- Natural Barenia
- Chevre [goat]
- Box [smooth,shiny]
- Chamonix
- Discontinued Hermes leathers:
- Veau Graine Lisse [pressed, textured]
- Courcheval [pressed, textured]
- Newer Hermes
- Swift
- Rodeo